Thrilling Bulls Island Adventure: Wild Alligators and the Eerie Beauty of Boneyard Beach, SC

Bulls Island is one of those South Carolina destinations that feels worlds away from the mainland. On December 5, 2020, we boarded the Caretta ferry from Awendaw for a day of exploring this barrier island just outside Charleston. I was excited to experience the island’s natural beauty, but I wasn’t quite prepared for the wildlife encounters that awaited us.

The approximately 30-minute ferry ride was an enjoyable start to the adventure. During the crossing, we learned more about Bulls Island from a Coastal Expeditions naturalist, whose knowledge of the island and its inhabitants added so much to the experience. Based on my own encounters that day, alligators certainly seemed to be among the island’s most prominent residents!

We had about 4½ hours on the island before the ferry returned. After arriving, we made our way toward the Observatory and then followed the levees in the direction of Boneyard Beach. One helpful detail we discovered is that newly constructed levees provide a walking route from the Observatory toward the beach, although this wasn’t shown on the map we had.

We were told that wild alligators would generally head toward the water when they saw people. We were also advised that making some noise would encourage them to move away. That wasn’t exactly what happened!

Several alligators were stretched out on the levee, sunning themselves, and they appeared perfectly content to stay right where they were. They certainly weren’t interested in following the advice I had been given about making room for hikers!

We didn’t have enough time to backtrack and find another route to the beach, so I gathered my courage and decided to go first. A few people who had initially turned around eventually decided to follow me. I suspect they figured that if I could make it past the alligators, I provided sufficient protection for everyone else!

The experience turned into one of the highlights of our visit. Because I was in front, I was able to get some surprisingly close photographs of these enormous and fascinating animals. Of course, I kept a healthy respect for their space and was very aware that these were wild animals in their natural habitat. Seeing them basking in the sun just a short distance away was both thrilling and humbling.

Eventually, we made our way to Boneyard Beach, one of the island’s most striking features. The beach reminded me very much of Botany Bay, with weathered tree trunks and branches scattered across the shoreline. I find these coastal landscapes wonderfully eerie. The skeletal trees create an almost surreal scene that feels both beautiful and mysterious.

If you enjoy photography, Boneyard Beach is a must-see. The combination of sand, ocean, driftwood, and weathered trees creates endless opportunities for interesting photographs. The landscape is constantly changing, so I imagine that no two visits would look exactly alike.

After exploring Boneyard Beach, we headed back along Lighthouse Road toward Turkey Walk and eventually returned to the area where the ferry was waiting. Bulls Island offers bathrooms and picnic tables, which are helpful for spending several hours on the island, but remember that the island can only be accessed by ferry or other permitted watercraft.

Although we had a wonderful day exploring Bulls Island, I did leave with a couple of disappointments. I had hoped to see the deer that other visitors have reported spotting and was also hoping for more bird sightings. Bulls Island is home to an impressive 293 species of birds, but perhaps December wasn’t the ideal time for the birdwatching experience I had envisioned.

I did learn something fascinating about the island’s importance to wildlife. Bulls Island is a nesting destination for loggerhead sea turtles, an endangered species. In 2019, the refuge recorded 3,596 loggerhead nests, demonstrating just how significant this stretch of coastline is for sea turtle conservation.

Between the ferry ride, wild alligators, eerie Boneyard Beach, and the island’s remarkable wildlife habitat, Bulls Island gave us an unforgettable day in nature. I would happily return, especially with more time to explore and hopefully catch a glimpse of the deer and some of the island’s incredible birdlife.

If You Go

Location: Bulls Island, Cape Romain National Wildlife Refuge, South Carolina
Access: The island is primarily accessed by ferry from the Awendaw area. Reservations are recommended.
Ferry ride: Approximately 30 minutes each way.
Time on island: Our trip allowed approximately 4½ hours to explore.
Highlights: Boneyard Beach, alligators, wildlife, coastal scenery, and the Observatory
Facilities: Bathrooms and picnic tables are available.
What to bring: Plenty of water, snacks, sunscreen, insect repellent, comfortable walking shoes, and a camera.
Wildlife tip: Remember that the alligators are wild animals. Give them plenty of space, never approach or feed them, and follow instructions from your naturalist or refuge staff.
Photography tip: Boneyard Beach is especially photogenic, but keep your camera ready throughout the island. Wildlife can appear when you least expect it.
Birdwatching: Bulls Island supports an impressive variety of bird species, so bring binoculars if birding is a priority.
Sea turtles: The island is an important nesting area for loggerhead sea turtles. Follow all posted rules designed to protect nesting habitat.
Plan ahead: Check current ferry schedules, island access, weather, and refuge regulations before your trip.